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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 701 Location: Grantham, NH
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Posted: 4/7/2009, 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Definitely climb the Monk. It's so fun!!
But, why limit yourself to boring stuff right in town when you can go climb this:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Topo/Mark_Trainor_s_shot_of_East_face_of_Courthouse_Rock_7215.html
Did you guys know that there is climbing in the San Tans? I had every intention of checking it out, but then I moved.
Also, don't forget about Queen Creek/Oak Flat. There are plenty of looong routes in the Lower Devils Canyon and Hackberry Creek area. The ultimate is the Totem Pole, although you'll need a strong leader for the 2nd pitch. The first pitch is like 5.9 or so, but the second is 5.10d and is kinda scary. You guys might like Geronimo on Apache Leap. It's a 2-pitch 5.6, 145' tall. Awesome!
Whatever you do, climb the Monk. Suz, climb it again.
Search mountainproject.com and rockclimbing.com for more climbing destinations. There is so much in AZ that is not well known, but is really cool. For instance, Isolation Canyon near Pine, and Winslow Wall east of Winslow. Oh, and all the canyons in the Sierra Ancha. _________________ "Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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Desert-Boonie
Joined: 23 Nov 2004 Posts: 219 Location: Glendale, AZ
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Posted: 4/7/2009, 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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Very nice you guys and gal. Tim the pictures were sweet, (yeah the gallery does not work at all for me either) Nothing like an adventure that deals with scrambling, climbing, puking, drinking, and seeing border patrol agents.
P.S.- Still doesn't look like you are drinking the good beer yet Tim. _________________ ~Never Satisfied~
"If I can't be my own, I'd feel better dead" |
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Arizonaheat Got Supes Juice?
Joined: 04 Jan 2003 Posts: 1741 Location: Mesa, AZ
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Posted: 4/7/2009, 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome! When I saw that title I thought you were talking about someplace in Europe. Not being a climber via ropes, I'm not up on such places, looks beautiful for sure. _________________ Our lives are not determined by what happens to us but by how we react to what happens, not by what life brings to us, but by the attitude we bring to life. |
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Davis2001R6
Joined: 12 Dec 2003 Posts: 5591 Location: Italy
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Posted: 4/7/2009, 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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Well having less than 2 months left here dictates a lot of what I can do. Matt were are some place nearby that would be good to setup a top rope to learn on?
I've only climbed 1 5.9 and that was in the McDowells, Energizer boulder I think, that took a lot of help from the belayer, felt like cheating. Just wish I would have started climbing sooner.
-TIM- |
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Suz
Joined: 27 Nov 2005 Posts: 3186
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Posted: 4/7/2009, 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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Matt Hoffman wrote: |
D
Whatever you do, climb the Monk. Suz, climb it again.
There is so much in AZ that is not well known, but is really cool. For instance, Isolation Canyon near Pine. |
Yes, I could manage the Monk again if that was what is needed to get Tim up there. Nestor is at Isolation Canyon TODAY!
I'm going to get to my pictures soon............... |
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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 701 Location: Grantham, NH
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Posted: 4/7/2009, 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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Davis2001R6 wrote: |
Matt were are some place nearby that would be good to setup a top rope to learn on?
-TIM- |
The best place for top-roping is Queen Creek/Oak Flat. I don't know if you have (or know someone who has) the Queen Creek guidebook, but there are many areas in Oak Flat West that have easy-to-set-up top-roping.
Also, it is possible to top-rope the AMC Boulder at Pinnacle Peak. There is one 5.6, and a handful of 5.8s and 5.10s.
Other than those places, I'm not sure. You can come visit me, and I'll take you to Coopers Rock, WV, which is top-roping or trad only (and bouldering). _________________ "Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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azbackpackr Hi Tech Wizardess
Joined: 31 Dec 2005 Posts: 3639 Location: Needles CA
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Posted: 4/8/2009, 4:12 am Post subject: |
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Arizonaheat wrote: |
Awesome! When I saw that title I thought you were talking about someplace in Europe. Not being a climber via ropes, I'm not up on such places, looks beautiful for sure. |
A lot of non-climbers have done the hiker's route up Babo, Sells side (west side). With an experienced guide and a couple of climbing and rappelling lessons any reasonably fit hiker can do it, which is why SAHC was doing it every year until the club banned roped climbing as a club activity due to insurance costs, after a couple of incidents. When I climbed it with the club, there were several OLD ladies doing it that day, I mean, late 70's. They all made it, but I thought for sure we'd lose one of them. This one old lady in particular hadn't attended the two classes at Rocks 'N' Ropes climbing gym that the guide had offered beforehand. She tried to downclimb the pitch, refused to lean back and walk down in rappel position. We were all on pins and needles because she absolutely refused our instructions. It was one reason the club stopped doing climbs because myself and others thought the whole thing was appalling, she shouldn't have been there to begin with but the guide allowed her to go. He's no longer a guide.
Since AZ heat and others may not have heard of Babo, let's give them the correct pronunciation: Bob oh KEE va ree. Something like that, accent on the "qui" which is pronounced with the Spanish KEE.
NOT NOT NOT: "Bob oh kwih VAR ee." But every one in Tucson calls it "Bob oh" for short. |
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Suz
Joined: 27 Nov 2005 Posts: 3186
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Posted: 4/8/2009, 6:43 am Post subject: |
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Certainly Nestor went up with only a rope dragging behind him...we didn't even belay him....there was no chance...he just flew up. However we all agreed the ropes were necessary for the down route. The most interesting stuff in that sign in box that I've EVER seen....we took pictures but are sort of afraid to post it because none of us want to be seen or connected to "it". |
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azbackpackr Hi Tech Wizardess
Joined: 31 Dec 2005 Posts: 3639 Location: Needles CA
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Posted: 4/8/2009, 9:31 am Post subject: |
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Oh, do you mean the hikers' register on the summit? Yup!
Were there still whiskey bottles with booze still in them lying around up there? Supposed offerings to the god I'itoi, who lives in the cave on the west side?
Interesting that the east side route can also be free-climbed, if only by a more experienced rock climber. The west side route would be extremely easy for a free-climber type person. In fact, they probably wouldn't bother--too easy for someone like that. |
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Davis2001R6
Joined: 12 Dec 2003 Posts: 5591 Location: Italy
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Posted: 4/8/2009, 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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azbackpackr wrote: |
A lot of non-climbers have done the hiker's route up Babo, Sells side (west side). |
East or west doesn't matter, they both go to the same saddle. The forbes route is the easy way up Babo, I still wouldn't go without a rope though. It seems silly to bring a rope up but not to use it for the climb. Either way your carrying it and a fall would probably kill you in a few spots.
Thanks for the pronunciation tip, we were wondering what the proper way to say it was as well. |
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mikehikes
Joined: 10 Feb 2008 Posts: 58 Location: Tucson
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Posted: 4/8/2009, 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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No they don't. The west side route totally cuts off the lower two pitches.
I have climbed Babo several times. Forbes, West Side, Southeast Arete. Spent the night on the summit twice. Once with over twenty-five SAHC members. _________________ Mike Coltrin
Tucson |
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azbackpackr Hi Tech Wizardess
Joined: 31 Dec 2005 Posts: 3639 Location: Needles CA
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Posted: 4/8/2009, 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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Mike, you beat me to it. I was going to say somewhat the same thing, that east and west don't follow the same route, and don't meet at a saddle. (Camping on the summit, though, now that sounds fun!) |
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Davis2001R6
Joined: 12 Dec 2003 Posts: 5591 Location: Italy
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Posted: 4/8/2009, 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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I stand corrected so you only climb the ladder pitch then?
We decided to go from the East at the last minute. That would explain why the 1st two pitches were not what I expected. |
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azbackpackr Hi Tech Wizardess
Joined: 31 Dec 2005 Posts: 3639 Location: Needles CA
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Posted: 4/8/2009, 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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I don't think so, but Mike might answer that one. My memory is that the routes are totally separate the entire way. I remember being told about the remains of that ladder, but I sure don't remember seeing it. I could be wrong, though. When I was sitting up on top for several hours other climbers were arriving from a different direction than we came from.
We drove to Sells, turned off near there, went to this funky campground on the Rez. The Indians were supposed to be there to collect money from us, but of course, they weren't there to collect it. There is a well-defined trail to the mtn. from there. After the trail, there was a rock scramble, then one pitch, then a big boulder that was hard for some people in the group. Which is why I got to sit up there with a friend for four hours--we made it past the big boulder in about 2 minutes flat, but it stopped everyone else cold. So we sat up there and waited 4 hours for them to climb the stupid boulder. Stupid SAHC climbing trips! Glad they ended those. Most of the people showing up had no business being there, including the guide. (This was NOT one of Mike's trips, this was much later on, and the whole thing was ridiculous. That guide is no longer a guide for the club, though, thank goodness. Back when Mike was leading them that was a different crowd, I wasn't a club member then. I've heard those trips were pretty good back then.)
However, it was fun sitting on the summit for a long time, although we did wonder what had happened to the others. I had no vested interest in finding out, though, I just waited. It wasn't my gig. I absolutely couldn't believe it took them that long, though. We finally started back down to look, but then they showed up.
Suz had the right idea: take some climbing classes, go in a small group and get someone to lead who actually knows what they are doing. |
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Davis2001R6
Joined: 12 Dec 2003 Posts: 5591 Location: Italy
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