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desertgirl
Joined: 19 Jan 2003 Posts: 3350 Location: Chandler, AZ
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 9:34 am Post subject: |
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Good point Susan. -- Yep the leader should watch for the obvious defects but if microcracks are the concern -- you can't see them. They ususally are in the matrix of the piece and are detected by scanning / X-Ray etc.
Frankly - In retrospect I am surprised at the anchor choice ( we did what was asked of us - the anchor construction was closely supervised by 3 senior instructors) given the amount and nature of stress that particular one was under. The issue of the rope /cordellete going over the edge was brought up and was assured that all was good and it would be fine - which it was not. There was a bunch of webbing available but no suggestion was made to replace the cordellete.
Now think about all the pieces that were in that anchor / rope system. I recall at least 5-6 ( may be more) studly folks repeated falling off that route - now should you retire all components that was part of that set up ? All the pieces held multiple falls with the associated shock loads of thoes people peeling off the wall. The way the falls were all the load was directly coming on the rope and anchor.
Personally, that anchor should have been set at the bolts, the way it should be. Wonder if the set up was because of the class and allowing us the "learning" opportunities or because they wanted pro in rather than the bolts ?
The more we see and experience -- everthing is becoming suspect _________________ Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream! |
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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 701 Location: Grantham, NH
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 11:10 am Post subject: |
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My intent wasn't to make you question every piece of climbing equipment. You'll end up driving yourself nuts. I don't know all of the science that goes into making climbing gear, I just know that most climbing gear is designed to repeatedly handle high amounts of stress and shock. Falling once on an anchor is not grounds for replacement. Someone in the AMC can probably explain all of this better than I can. I just climb. Technical stuff doesn't interest me. I know just enough to keep from killing myself on the weekends.
With all of that said, buying used gear is still a bad idea. I understand what you're saying too, but, trust me, don't do it! _________________ "Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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RedRoxx44 Queen of the Walkabout
Joined: 15 Jan 2004 Posts: 1167
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Matt, like the website _________________ You can rest when you're dead |
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desertgirl
Joined: 19 Jan 2003 Posts: 3350 Location: Chandler, AZ
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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I have decided to wait on a major windfall to build me a nice new shiny rack -- It will be a long ways coming....
Till then I hope I can climb on someone else's gear and hope that they take care of it and hope its not "used". Discussion was excellent ... great points. Thanks. _________________ Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream! |
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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 701 Location: Grantham, NH
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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RedRoxx44 wrote: |
Hey Matt, like the website |
Thanks!
desertgirl wrote: |
Till then I hope I can climb on someone else's gear and hope that they take care of it and hope its not "used". |
Apparently I'm not being taken seriously. That kind of sarcasm hurts! I was only trying to help cause I care! _________________ "Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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desertgirl
Joined: 19 Jan 2003 Posts: 3350 Location: Chandler, AZ
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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Matt Hoffman wrote: |
desertgirl wrote: |
Till then I hope I can climb on someone else's gear and hope that they take care of it and hope its not "used". |
Apparently I'm not being taken seriously. That kind of sarcasm hurts! I was only trying to help cause I care! |
Matt - No sarcasm intended -- You are being taken seriously. I honestly appreciate your inputs. _________________ Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream! |
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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 701 Location: Grantham, NH
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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desertgirl wrote: |
Matt - No sarcasm intended -- You are being taken seriously. I honestly appreciate your inputs. |
I know! I'm just messing with you. I'm bored. _________________ "Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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Davis2001R6
Joined: 12 Dec 2003 Posts: 5591 Location: Italy
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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Well that Ohio for you......sorry Matt You have any trips planned back here yet? |
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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 701 Location: Grantham, NH
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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I've done a couple of things, little hikes, but nothing exciting. I don't know when that will happen. I'm having a hard time getting excited about anything here.
I caught this sweet pike on Monday. 28 inches of delicious pike fillet. That's the most exciting thing to happen to me in Ohio so far.
_________________ "Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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Suz
Joined: 27 Nov 2005 Posts: 3186
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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Matt Hoffman wrote: |
I caught this sweet pike on Monday. 28 inches of delicious pike fillet. That's the most exciting thing to happen to me in Ohio so far.....with the exception of getting married.
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There I fixed that for you! |
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Suz
Joined: 27 Nov 2005 Posts: 3186
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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We've learned a lot about climbing in a very short periord of time.......it has been good for our brains. Learning about the gear is a part of the process, I think. It's good to have a place to ask questions and get a little help from friends.
Now I need to figure out why my collar bone is sticking out on one side?? |
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Hikngrl Canyoneering is my 'Happy Place'
Joined: 27 May 2003 Posts: 5578 Location: Peoria, AZ
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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Suz wrote: |
Matt Hoffman wrote: |
I caught this sweet pike on Monday. 28 inches of delicious pike fillet. That's the most exciting thing to happen to me in Ohio so far.....with the exception of getting married.
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There I fixed that for you! |
Good catch Susan! I am sure Matt will appreciate it when he sees how much help you have been to his happy future! _________________ ~~~Diane~~~
I want to shine! |
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Davis2001R6
Joined: 12 Dec 2003 Posts: 5591 Location: Italy
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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Funny, took me a few takes to figure that one out. Kept looking at the fish as if you made it bigger. Now that I've successfully hijacked the thread I will stop posting now
I have to say girls, you are making me jealous of all the fun stuff your climbing. Maybe next week I can make the climbing gym if any of you are going.
-TIM- |
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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 701 Location: Grantham, NH
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Posted: 11/20/2008, 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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Matt Hoffman wrote: |
That's the most exciting thing to happen to me in Ohio so far.
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Suz wrote: |
Matt Hoffman wrote:
That's the most exciting thing to happen to me in Ohio so far.....with the exception of getting married.
There I fixed that for you! |
Suz, you are too funny! I caught that myself just as I was posting, but I was too lazy to go back and edit my post. I thought that maybe I could get away with that one. _________________ "Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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Suz
Joined: 27 Nov 2005 Posts: 3186
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Posted: 11/21/2008, 6:12 am Post subject: |
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Davis2001R6 wrote: |
I have to say girls, you are making me jealous of all the fun stuff your climbing. Maybe next week I can make the climbing gym if any of you are going.
-TIM- |
I'm really trying to see if this protruding collar bone/shoulder thing can heal up on it's own so I'm trying to rest it for more than 3 days...drinking my coffee lefthanded. However, that being said....it's not THAT bad and I've got a whole other arm (got a little addicition growing here, I think) and I'm sure I could be easily persuaded to hit the gym again....next week is a tinch booked up for me but perhaps I could make it to the PRG on Wednesday 11/26....otherwise we are looking at Tuesday, Dec. 2nd for our next big group night.
Matt, come on back for a weekend we'll figure out how to add a little adventure to your life. We could always use a good lead climber, I've got a list of places I need to climb now. ---the hand, the crying dinosaur, jacuzzi spires, the pond, hanging gardens............oh, and could you bring your rope, too? and if you've got a wetsuit I've got a canyoneering trip or two I'm interested in doing.....come on!....airfares have got to be dirt cheap. |
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