Building my Rack ....

[desertgirl]

Good point Susan. -- Yep the leader should watch for the obvious defects but if microcracks are the concern -- you can't see them. They ususally are in the matrix of the piece and are detected by scanning / X-Ray etc.

Frankly - In retrospect I am surprised at the anchor choice ( we did what was asked of us - the anchor construction was closely supervised by 3 senior instructors) given the amount and nature of stress that particular one was under. The issue of the rope /cordellete going over the edge was brought up and was assured that all was good and it would be fine - which it was not. There was a bunch of webbing available but no suggestion was made to replace the cordellete.

Now think about all the pieces that were in that anchor / rope system. I recall at least 5-6 ( may be more) studly folks repeated falling off that route - now should you retire all components that was part of that set up ? All the pieces held multiple falls with the associated shock loads of thoes people peeling off the wall. The way the falls were all the load was directly coming on the rope and anchor.

Personally, that anchor should have been set at the bolts, the way it should be. Wonder if the set up was because of the class and allowing us the "learning" opportunities or because they wanted pro in rather than the bolts ?

The more we see and experience -- everthing is becoming suspect
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Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream!

[Matt Hoffman]

My intent wasn't to make you question every piece of climbing equipment. You'll end up driving yourself nuts. I don't know all of the science that goes into making climbing gear, I just know that most climbing gear is designed to repeatedly handle high amounts of stress and shock. Falling once on an anchor is not grounds for replacement. Someone in the AMC can probably explain all of this better than I can. I just climb. Technical stuff doesn't interest me. I know just enough to keep from killing myself on the weekends.

With all of that said, buying used gear is still a bad idea. I understand what you're saying too, but, trust me, don't do it!
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"Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html

[RedRoxx44]

Hey Matt, like the website
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You can rest when you're dead

[desertgirl]

I have decided to wait on a major windfall to build me a nice new shiny rack -- It will be a long ways coming....
Till then I hope I can climb on someone else's gear and hope that they take care of it and hope its not "used". Discussion was excellent ... great points. Thanks.
_________________
Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream!

[Matt Hoffman]

[desertgirl]

[Matt Hoffman]

[Davis2001R6]

Well that Ohio for you......sorry Matt You have any trips planned back here yet?

[Matt Hoffman]

I've done a couple of things, little hikes, but nothing exciting. I don't know when that will happen. I'm having a hard time getting excited about anything here.

I caught this sweet pike on Monday. 28 inches of delicious pike fillet. That's the most exciting thing to happen to me in Ohio so far.


_________________
"Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html

[Suz]

[Suz]

We've learned a lot about climbing in a very short periord of time.......it has been good for our brains. Learning about the gear is a part of the process, I think. It's good to have a place to ask questions and get a little help from friends.

Now I need to figure out why my collar bone is sticking out on one side??

[Hikngrl]

[Davis2001R6]

Funny, took me a few takes to figure that one out. Kept looking at the fish as if you made it bigger. Now that I've successfully hijacked the thread I will stop posting now

I have to say girls, you are making me jealous of all the fun stuff your climbing. Maybe next week I can make the climbing gym if any of you are going.

-TIM-

[Matt Hoffman]

[Suz]