Survivor - West Fork

[Arizonaheat]

SURVIVOR – WEST FORK


DAY 1. SEPT 19, 2003

The participants and backup personal began arriving at Fort Tuthill Campground around noon, Friday. They continued arriving throughout the day with the last arriving around 9:30 or 10:00. The afternoon and early evening hours were spent sitting around socializing, enjoying the beautiful weather and for those of us who enjoy drinking beer, imbibing a few.

Around 8:00 several of us departed for Bun Huggers to eat and as Hnak put it do some heavy duty cholesterol loading. GTG and Kurthzone were hung in traffic trying to escape the valley but managed to arrive at Bun Huggers in time for a meal.

We returned to camp, did some more socializing around the fire and finalized plans for the big HIKE! Our group totaled 17, with 10 anticipating conquering West Fork.

DAY 2, SEPT 20, 2003

We began rolling out of our slumber in the cool morning darkness between 4:30 and 4:45 AM. The temperature was a balmy 38 degrees and we could see each others breath as our headlamps illuminated our surroundings. Looking up through the towering pines, the sky was crystal clear bursting with brilliantly shining stars.

We were soon in our shuttle vehicles ready for the 45 minute commute to our departure point at the upper reaches of West Fork. We departed the campground and made our way onto I-40 West heading for L.A. . Anticipation was running high and the vehicles were reaching warp factor speeds. Mike was in the lead and before we knew it our exit, 191, was upon us. We didn’t have time to slow to impulse power so we hit the ramp at warp speed. We were on two wheels as we made the corner, but we all leaned to one side bringing the vehicle back down on its wheels. ( just kidding)
Shortly after exiting at 191, we exited on Woody Mtn road which would take us to our departure point. This is a well maintained gravel road and I would guess the distance to be about 14 miles to where we departed. Along the commute we were watching the temperature gauge in the vehicle and the temp. was slowly dropping. Shortly before our destination it was down to a butt blistering 32.

We arrived at our departure point, with the temp. all the way back up to 35.
After getting organized and taking some group photos we were ready for our adventure to begin. Participants in alphabetical order included Arizonaheat, Ck1, Dcornelius, GTG, HikerInGilbert, Hnak, Kurthzone, Mike, Sandee J and Tony. None of us had ever done this hike before so we could only rely on hear-say as to what to expect. None of us in our wildest dreams would ever had guessed what laid ahead.

Survivor - West Fork was now ready to begin. Team Arizonahikers, dropped off the bridge embankment into the upper reaches to the West Fork of Oak Creek and we were on our way.

Things started out routinely enough for Team Arizonahikers as we followed the creek bed as it descended deeper and deeper into the Canyon. We took in the awe inspiring scenery that was surrounding us and marveled at the lush greenness on display by the various flora. We were soon fairly deep inside the Canyon with its walls towering above the majestic pines and other flora that lay below. This relaxed, kicked back atmosphere that we were anticipating for our entire trip was about to take a drastic change.

We were soon upon our first Survivor challenge of the day, a pool of water. Not knowing how deep it was Hnak (Hank), the tallest of the team was soon in the pool standing in water up to his neck. Unable to walk any further he said “yep, it’s a swimmer”. GTG tested the temperature of the pool and it was a very cold 45. We used Dry bags and garbage bags to protect our electronics and daypacks and one by one we were making our way across the first pool of the day. The water was so cold it caused excruciating pain. All the men were talking 8 octaves higher.

We barely went any distance at all and we were upon the second “swimmer” of the day. All the members of the team made it to the other side, but this is when a degree of concern began to enter the minds of all team members. After crossing the second pool several of us were shivering severely. Though no one really said anything, the probability of hypothermia definitely entered my mind. None of us knew what laid ahead so that added to the uncertainty and concern.

We continued on our way and were soon confronted with a huge deep pool of water, fortunately we were able to navigate up and around this pool. When we came upon the next pool we weren’t so lucky, another “swimmer” Shortly after conquering this pool we finally found a place where the sun was able to penetrate to the Canyon floor and we were able to warm up some. By this time we were looking like a bunch of drowned rats. We were able to get a GPS fix and after checking the map determined we were averaging less than one mile per hour.

We continued down the Canyon having to swim several more pools and wade dozens of knee to chest deep pools. It was necessary to walk narrow rock ledges covered with wet, slippery moss and traverse deep pools walking across tree bridges that were about 6 inches in diameter. A mistake on the tree bridge would be certain sadness.
Dozens of falls were taken on the slick rock, submerging people, packs and all in the frigid water. I believe one digital camera may have been ruined in a face plant. It is a miracle that through it all no one was injured, no broken bones, no split skulls, especially with a team of 10. No complaining, everyone sucked it up, knew what we had to do to get out before darkness, and did it. A truly incredible bunch of people.

In several areas the canyon closed down to about 10 feet wide with red rock walls soaring hundreds of feet above. The beauty was astounding. Unusual rock formations were everywhere and SandyJ found some neat fossils.

We found a great place for a mid afternoon break on a slab of nice red rock. This is where we were confronted with our next Survivor Challenge of the day. Ck1 was filtering water with what he thought was GTG’s water filter, while the rest of us were either snacking or laying down kicking back on the rock. GTG was resting when all the sudden a small rock landed between his legs. He thought one of us had thrown a rock at him trying to interrupt his rest. It was determined that none of us had thrown the rock so he looked up the soaring red rock wall towering above him and he yelled SNAKE!!!!!!! There was a snake flying through the air followed by a definite splat noise. The snake had narrowly missed landing on Todd and lit in a small patch of sand. Todd picked the snaked up and the darn thing knocked it self out. The snake eventually came to and regained enough of its senses that Todd let it go and it slithered off into the water.

We don’t know if the snake was sunning itself up on top the red rock cliff and accidentally fell off, if it had been out eating peyote or mushrooms with his buddies and he thought he could fly, if it was some sort of Snake Fear Factor stunt, seeing how close they could land to a human or maybe his wife kicked him out of the house. Regardless, I don’t think any of us will ever see something like that again in a million years.

It was soon pushing 4 in the afternoon, the time our support crew was expecting us out and we still hadn’t got to the point where there was any indication of a trail from the lower end and we were still battling water, the swims were over, except for the unanticipated slip and fall in the water drenching. We knew they would be getting worried about us and we still had over 4 miles to go and like I said we were averaging less that one mile per hour.

Finally after being in water for almost eleven miles and ten hours we started to pick up remnants of trail, then finally full blown trail. At this point we kicked it into to gear to beat darkness. The first three of us were out around 6:15 with the final team members arriving at the lower trail head at 6:45 as darkness was setting in.

Hooli and CatValet were anxiously awaiting our arrival as we were behind schedule. They could read our minds and had cold beer waiting. We loaded into the shuttle vehicles for the ride back to camp where we feasted like kings and queens.

This was an absolutely fantastic trip that presented adventure, danger, challenge and uncertainty. It was much more than any of us anticipated as none of us were expecting to have to deal with the large amount of water that was present. We don’t know if all those pools are perennial or if the recent rains are responsible for the challenge we faced. With conditions being as they were when we hiked it, I would only recommend this hike to the extreme hard core, physically fit hiker. This hike required an enormous amount of energy with all the swimming, shivering, wading. Water was an obstacle for 11 of the 14.25 miles.

I can’t say enough good things about the people that went on this hike. An absolutely outstanding group of individuals. It amazes me that a group of ten could mesh so well as a team and confront the challenge we faced in such an outstanding way. So many things could have went wrong, with the chance of rescue being near impossible considering the terrain.

If I would have missed this hike I would have never forgiven myself, these are the types of hikes I live for. Thanks for putting it together this outstanding hike Mike. And thanks for pulling me out of my reclusive hole. After hiking alone all summer I was turning back into a loner, you guys are transforming me slowly but surely. And I can definitely say I had a BLAST!!

[Hikngrl]

Incredble write up Kent! I knew you would put it into words like I could not! At risk of sounding like the Arizonaheat fan club I must say that I would not have made it through all those pools if it had not been for you! You encouraged me, helped me and practaically drug me out of the last one!!!! Thank you!

As much as I hate to admit it I was the first person to take the plunge in to the freezing water on the trail. Not the first to jump into the pools (Hank! the water tester) but the first to take a nose dive unintentionally! Unfortunallty through out the day I made several more not so gracefull landings in that ever so cold water. I was however not the only one! I thibnk all of us dropped inthe drink at least one except Hank and Kent. I don't know Tony did you fall too?

So many cuts and bruises. So many great memories; Todd's introduction to the snake, hearing a loud "oh my gosh!" out in front of us warning us that yet another pool awaited us around the corner and one of our comerades had just stepped into it to at least waist high! There are advantages to being a woman!

And speaking of being a woman! I want to say that Sandy, you were a true inspiration out there!!!!! I am proud to call myself an "Arizonahikers tough girl" with you!

By the time we got out of there my feet felt like they would be pruney for ever from that day forward and I knew I was gonna walk funny in the morning (and I did)! However, I knew I had done something I would always remember and always be proud to say I did! Oh the storys that are gonna come outta this one!
_________________
~~~Diane~~~

I want to shine!

[Guest]

I am so envious. If I had been able to go I would have only done the lower half, which would have made my envy even greater! I have done West Fork top to bottom twice and there was never so much water I had to swim. Good thing too because once was in November and it was snowing! Glad you all had a such a wonderful time. Even more glad that you all survived! And as always Kent, your skilled writing made it the next best thing to being there.

[Tom Treks]

Bravo, bravo!!!

Kent, you are one awesome artist! That definitely painted the whole scenario. Much better than one could ever dream of explaining.

My hat goes off to the whole crowd. Truly an adventure I will not forget for a looong time. As tough as it was, everything pretty much clicked from beginning to end. A true reflection of all involved.

Awesome!

[Arizonaheat]

I just added some photo's to the gallery. Hope you all enjoy.

Thanks to all for the compliments.

This hike will stick in the memory banks that is for sure
_________________
Our lives are not determined by what happens to us but by how we react to what happens, not by what life brings to us, but by the attitude we bring to life.

[Arizonaheat]

GTG wrote

[Sande J]

I just posted on the Events thread page and then came over here and viewed the pics Arizonaheat posted in the gallery. Thanks Kent...the pics are just awesome and capture the unforgettable event. What a true group of troopers...

[Tom Treks]

[paintninaz]

WOW!

You guys are awesome! Kent, thanks for the great trip report, and the beautiful pictures...you really know how to make a person feel as if they were tagging right along (I "almost" feel guilty for sitting here dry and warm while reading it!)

I would've loved to do this hike, although I'm not sure I could've kept up (if Sande J says she was about fried at the end, I KNOW it had to be a tough one !!), but I'd definitely like to give it a try next year!! Maybe if I start preparing now, I'll be ready....

Great job guys!
_________________
~Tracy

“Friends make the bad times good — and the good times unforgettable.”

[GeorgAz]

You guys are the Heroes and Champions!! Too cool!! What an amazing beautiful place that canyon is!Thank you so much for the description and photos of a place I'll probably not get to see.How great that there were no injuries and that you all jelled so well and were there for each other! Bravo guys and gals! Quite an accomplishment!!

[azhiker96]

Great writeup! I am so jealous. My team faired poorly in the pool tournament so I ended up with a free Sunday which was spent on Mt. Wrightson again. The West Fork is definitely on my short list now.

[Hnak]

Kent, thanks for the great report! I'll try to get a few pictured uploaded this evening... What a blast! Let's do it again.... but not necessarily this coming weekend.

[Guest]

Great picture's Kent. I really enjoyed them esp. the snake. Would have loved to have witnessed that one! Let's see, next year my boys will be 18 and on their own(yeah, right), my girls are the 'good one's' . I just might be able to tag along next time!

[sherileeaz]

Kent, thanks for sharing the photos. I've done West Fork from the bottom to the turn around point. I always wondered what lurked beyond the Canyon walls, now I know. Fabulous pictures! Sometime I'd like to do this hike all the way, ummm maybe in "this" lifetime!! Definitely the next!! After seeing the photos, I second what GeorgAZ said about no injuries. Congrats!

[JW]

Darn it! Darn it! Darn-it!

Tom and several other people told me about this hike and I just could not schedule it! Darn!

Good write-up, Kent! We need to chat about the Super ridgeline and the possibility of the route via Hieroglyphic canyon.

That thing about the snake was way cool! Have those cameras ready! Once, hiking in Illinois, my companion and I heard branches breaking over our heads, and a six-foot black snack almost fell on us! Animals screw-up, too!

Since I couldn't join you guys for your "real" canyoneering overnighting adventures, I did Fish Creek (upper) for five and a-half+ hours, in your honor, in 90-107 degree temps. I was looking for some indication of petroglyphs/cliff dwellings up there since there are so many caves, etc. An awesome place. Next time...

And I mean to hangout with you guys, even if it means loosing my place at the oar! What's a job when we live to hike?

Jim.