Appalachian Trail

[Davis2001R6]

I hope he's keeping a good journal for himself along the way. Hopefully he can write a mini-book or article about his adventures along the way.

[Tommy]

On the early morning of July 11th, I'm tossing and turning in my bunk at the "Welcome Hikers Hostel" in Glencliff, NH. I can't sleep. At the base of the White Mountains, all I can think about is the upcoming climb up Mt. Moosilauke, and the first time going above treeline on the AT.

Ever since Georgia, whenver I described a grueling section of trail, undoubtably someone from the Northeast would say,"Ah, this was nothing, wait 'til you hit the Whites in New Hampshire." So now I'm here at the base of the beast. And, it has been raining for a week straight, adding to my trepidation about hiking up and down steep, rocky, muddy, and slippery segments.

At 5 Am, I can stand it no longer. My fellow hiker bunkmates are all sleeping soundly. This is because they are all southbounders who have just completed what Bill Bryson, in A Walk in the Woods, calls 20% of the distance, but 50% of the work - New Hampshire and Maine. My northbounder friends who I've beeen leapfrogging with are all either a bit ahead or beind. So it's just me heading out this early.

I quickly pack up. Having 1775 miles under my belt, I can pretty much do this blindfolded. At 5:30, I start the half mile walk up the road to the trailhead while eating one of my usual breakfasts, a 1/4 pound of peanut butter and nutella slathered ona couple of flour tortillas. yum.

As soon as I hit the trailhead, the first thing I see is a stream. The whiteblaze trailmarker is on the other side. I can see the rocksteps that are meant to be a bridge are covered with 4 inches of rusing water. Keeping in mind I just spent the entire previous day drying out my one pair of socks and trailrunners, I quickly ford the creek, immediately soaking everything again. With the first splashing sound, all I can hear in my head is "Welcome to the Whites."

How can I describe the hike up Moosilauke (and most of the White Mountain peaks thereafter)? For you Arizona hikers, imagine climbing up to the flatiron - in wet and slippery conditions. Then do it again. The concept of switchbacks do not exist up here. Fun stuff. After 3-4 hours I'm finally up on the ridge above treeline, 4800 ft elevation, a healthy 3700 ft gain. The ridge is shrouded in fog and the silence is eerie. Just the sound of my own footsteps through a misty damp cloud.

I don't dawdle. Who knows when the weather will turn from drizzly to stormy. Now the descent, which at least 3 people had described with the word "treacherous." They were right. The descent, though aided in places with cables, rails, and rocksteps, simply put, was hard and slow. But finally I make it with only a few scrapes and bruises.

Ok, the first "Biggie" is out of the way. But now the real fun begins. The rest of the hike to camp doesn't have quite the elevation gain, but it could also hardly be called a trail. I am either walking on exposed tree roots, slippery knife edge rocks, mud bogs, or streams. For the next 9 miles, all I can see is about 20 feet ahead, and I can can think about is the next step. Miserable hiking. At my lowest moment, I miscalculate and slip right off a rock into a foot deep mud bog. When I climb out, my right shoe stays in, swalled by the bog. Taking off my pack and sitting on the nearest rock, I must look quite a sight, soaked and dirty and wearing only one shoe. A couple of hikers show up while I'm stewing and we just look at each other, each of us wishing we were somewhere else. And then we all just start laughing. Why - I'm not sure, but it felt good.

So I resolve to have a better attitude for the rest of the hike. I'm cold, but not freezing. Wet and dirty, but who cares. I'll just pretend I'm 10 years old again when tramping through the mud was a good thing.

Finally, and I mean finally, I make it to camp at about 6:30 - 17 miles in 13 hours. Physically and mentally exhausted. The other hikers at camp look just as worn out as I do. Soon, southbound hiker with extensive hiking experience in these parts shows up. He hears our tales of the trail and the brutal section we just completed.

He laughs and says, "Ah, this was nothing. Wait 'til you hit Maine." Nice.

****************************

Now, a week later, I've completed New Hampshire and am scratching and clawing my way through Maine, presently in the town of Andover. Since that first day, the weather cleared some and I made it through the presidential mountain range, "the Prezzies," under sunny blue skies. The views from the 20 some miles of ridgeline walking above treeline are by far the best so far on the AT. And I can see now why these mountains are so special to so many.

Thanks again to everyone who has been following this crazy journey. I have been keeping a detailed journal and plan to fill in my trailjournals page with more stories and and experiences after the trip is complete.

Onward to Katahdin.
And, happy hiking.

[thesuperstitions]

Onward indeed! Journey safely. Can't wait to hear the tales!

[Davis2001R6]

Sounds like some tough sections there Tommy. Can't wait to here all the stories, tips and tricks some day.

[paintninaz]

[desertgirl]

[Hikngrl]

Wow Tommy! You are doing great my friend! This is a time in your life that you will remember for ever and talk about always! Just think of the stories you will have to tell! Not many people in this world get to do what you are doing! Keep on hikin'! We are with you!
_________________
~~~Diane~~~

I want to shine!

[JW]

Outstanding stuff and excellent written words, bud! I'm looking forward to your next installment and the next time we hike!
_________________
What a magnificent time to LIVE! - Everett Ruess.

Since my house burned down, I now own a better view of the rising moon. - Masahide.

[wanderingsoul]

Tommy I applaud you You are doing great despite all the trials and tribulations you are encountering. What a great feeling you will have when this is done. Thanks for keeping the trail story going for us. What an experience!
Stay safe, keep having fun and enjoy the rest of what is to come. It will be something you look back on with a smile.
_________________
Wanderingsoul (Michelle)

Positive Thinking Is the Spark that Makes Dreams Happen~~~Unknown

[Shawn]

Bravo!
_________________
The bear went over the mountain to see what he could see.

[IGO]

Onward through the fog man!
_________________
"Surely all God's people, however serious or savage, great or small, like to play. Whales and elephants, dancing, humming gnats, and invisibly small mischievous microbes - all are warm with divine radium and must have lots of fun in them." John Muir

[beckett]

Yeah Tommy! You've made it to Maine! I loved Maine when I visited there. Can't wait to read about your journey in detail.
Linda
_________________
"A real friend is one who walks in when the rest of the world walks out."

-- Walter Winchell, American newspaper commentator

[kurthzone]

_________________
;o)>

[Tommy]

Mount Katahdin. The Big K. The end of the road for the AT. 2174 trail miles.

Waking up on August 2nd, it was hard to believe this would be the last time on this multi-month trip hearing the swooshing sound of the sleeping bag getting crammed into the stuff sack. Or the clickity-clack of the tent poles being folded. Or putting on dirty socks and a smelly t-shirt.

Walking through Maine's relatively flat "100 mile wilderness", this 5268 ft peak loomed ahead of us like a dreaded final exam we'd been preparing months to take. My hiking companion friends of the past couple weeks (Tapper, Cottontop, and Caterpillar) were as anxious as I was to start this final day. It is hard to describe how fast and strong friendship bonds can develop while enduring the challenges of long distance hiking. Our little foursome, though only hiking together for the last leg of the journey, were no exception. We'd been through a lot together in Maine, and were as excited as little kids to finally "get up K."

The hike itself was pretty straightforward. First, the mile of flat trail walking along Katahdin stream. Then, the inevitable rocky, steep, and exposed climb up to the ridge above treeline before the last slightly less harrowing mile of ridgewalking to Baxter peak. Normally, this would be a grueling day hike. But, with as many miles as we'd come and the adrenaline rush of the last day, the top seemed to arrive before the pain of the climb set in.

Caterpillar and Cottontop, purists to the end, carried their full packs while Tapper carried about a half filled pack. I, who obviously have no honor, borrowed a daypack from the ranger station filled with only a couple snacks and a half liter of water. So, with only carrying about a 3 pound pack and ignoring the "you dirty slackpacker" jests from the others, I was able to quickly take the lead and scurry up the 4000+ ft gain in a little over 2 1/2 hours.

Reaching that last Northern Terminus sign of which I had only previously seen in pictures was supposed to be a dramatic and special moment. Instead, getting there in the fog and touching the sign alone, I felt nothing. Anticlimactic. There were no fireworks or angels singing or falling down and kissing the ground celebrating the months of hiking joys and agonies in a single moment. Just a weird and icky feeling in the pit of my stomach that said the hike was over. Not knowing what to do exactly, I simply sat down on a nearby rock and ate a snickers bar while waiting for the others.

And then they came. First Tapper with a huge contagious smile on her face. Right behind her were Caterpillar and Cottontop. Looking at the faces of my fellow thru-hikers and then watching Cottontop say a little prayer of thanks at the sign, it started to hit me - this was a big deal. I don't think any of us were able to fully process this moment as a culmination of all the miles we'd come. We were simply enjoying the moment in good company, taking pictures of each other at the sign in various poses while laughing and reflecting. Reluctantly, we finally started the descent down the mountain and the beginnings of re-entry into our real lives off the trail.

And now, a couple of days later, I'm feeling a little sappy and sentimental and sad that it's over. I am starting to understand all of the talk that I didn't at all comprehend when I started back in April as to what the Appalachian trail experience is all about. Like the Trail Days festival slogan sums up perfectly, "The People are the Trail."

Happy hiking everyone!
**********
pictures forthcoming..may take a few days or more.

*********
And now, PCT '08? Anyone? Anyone?

[Tom Treks]

Congrats, dude!! That's a major major accomplishment. You did it!

To put it into perspective, when I moved to AZ, I DROVE 1800 miles across many states. It felt like an eternity. You did almost 2200 miles on your dang feet.

I can see how it would be kind of a bummer that it's all over. You've been living off of what you carry for a long time. They say after only 30 days anything can become a habit.

My hat is off to you and all of your thru-hiker buddies that you met along the way.

Now, where are the pics and stories, dammit!! Chop chop.