Mounts Rainier and Hood Trip Reports

[sbkelley]

Mount Rainier found here:


http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=4659&cpgm=tripmain

Ok, on to Mount Hood:


Participants: sbkelley, sdkeil (From 14ers), CODave (from 14ers)
Elevation Gain: 5400 feet
Mileage: 8
Time: 10 hours

Preparation Day:

The hangover of our four days on Mount Rainier couldn’t last long. After leaving Ashford on July 8, we spent a day in Seattle seeing the sights and started making our way south to Oregon for our next objective (with, of course, a required stop at the Tacoma Hooters). We stayed the night at the Mt. St. Helens Hotel in Castle Rock, WA, and slept in the next morning, doing laundry and cleaning gear, and started driving towards Government Camp and Mount Hood. By mid-afternoon, we reached the turnoff for the Timberline Lodge and 6 steep miles later, drove into the parking lot and arrived in a world far different than that of Mt. Rainier.


Mt Hood from US 26

Replacing the mountaineering crowd was a horde of mid-summer skiers; replacing the knowledgeable guides were a couple of Forest Service rangers who knew little about the conditions of the upper mountain (bear in mind we were not at the main Mt. Hood USFS Ranger Station near Government Camp), and replacing our fine Ashford accommodations was an array of dilapidated campsites, apparently ignored for over a decade. You won’t find the Alpine Campsite that appears on your maps except for a few remnants of old picnic tables and campsite sign posts. After driving in vain through a few of these similar closed or ignored sites, we settled on the abandoned Salmon Creek site and got ready for the morning (or, more accurately, later that night). We packed gear for the climb, ate our Subway sandwiches, and crawled into tent or sleeping bag at 6:30. Fighting warmth, humidity, sunlight, and mosquitoes, we fitfully rested until 11:00 when the alarms went off.

Mount Hood summit day:

The day began with energy. We were surprisingly alert and alive given the strange hour. As we drove back up to Timberline Lodge, cars were departing for the night for home and bed. Not us. We pulled into a blustery and cool parking lot, parked in the Overnight lot, and observed a group of about 12 getting ready to board a SnoCat for a ride up to the top of the ski area at 8,500 feet. We began hiking up through the ski area at about 12:15, staying as far to the right (east) as we could, and trudged up the uneventful slopes toward the top of the ski area. A little over an hour later, nearing the top of the ski runs, we followed the track of yet another SnoCat that deposited another guided group of climbers above us. Two groups of 10 or more climbers (both guided) now were ahead of us, starting their climb 2,700 feet higher than ours. Their headlamps and tracks served as a great navigational guide until we caught the lower group at around 9,000 feet.


Me and Dave shivering in the morning cold and wind

Now we began the “real climbing”, as the slope steepened and the signs of the ski area diminished behind us.


Slopes approaching Devils Kitchen

Admittedly, I was a bit nervous about what we’d encounter higher up. I knew a 45 degree snow and ice slope awaited us higher, and I had not climbed anything of that degree this past winter in Arizona. Winter snow climbs of Agassiz Peak and Mount San Jacinto allowed me to test my gear in full and to gain a measure of comfort on snow, no doubt, but the grade of those climbs was not comparable to what I’d face. Meanwhile, Dave and Shawn had spent the winter in Arctic-like conditions of Colorado and had done snow climbs similar to this before. Shawn in particular was feeling confident, and made it known with a barrage of trash-talking aimed at the route, which he knew he’d breeze up.

We followed the lower group up until 9,000 feet, where we needed to don crampons as the snow hardened, the slope steepened to near 30 degrees and the bigger group slowed. We made quick progress across loose rock outcroppings and hard, icy snow to the entrance to Devil’s Kitchen, now just under 1,000 feet from the summit. The stench of the fumaroles was heavy here. Above, light began to reveal the rest of the route. The Hogsback, now just above us, was the next goal, and we could see the first group of the day (the ones that had taken the early SnoCat) about half-way up the Old Chutes route, the part of the climb I was worried about.


A glance up at the Upper Chutes Route with Mt Hood's shadow

On the upper slopes above us, loose rock rained down into the nearby fumaroles, a disconcerting sound, but none seemed to be occurring on our route. After a rest here, we moved up easily over the Hogsback and traversed a short distance, gaining another loose rock section which we climbed before reaching the snow of the Old Chutes at about 10,300 feet. The wind was still howling here and would continue to do so for the rest of the climb.


Fumaroles


Haflway up the Chutes looking up

Directly above us, a large unguided group (which we hadn’t seen until we were almost on top of them) made their way slowly up the heavily traveled part of the Chutes (the part with boot prints), so with Shawn leading the way, we stayed to the right (south) area and out of their fall line. Initially, the slope was 38 degrees, as measured by Shawn, and felt fine going up. I could tell, though, that the snow was not in good shape. A layer of ice covered the first inch or so, and beneath this layer was softer, but still-icy, snow. A slide here, to say the least, would not be good. For this reason, we decided to go unroped up this section: a fall by one of us would almost certainly have sent the other two falling. We discussed pros and cons of each, and made the decision as a group. As a note, the other guided groups on the mountain were roped together. Alert and focused, my confidence swelled as I deliberately made my way up the slope, switching axe hands when necessary. Before long, we had caught the unguided group, and were now less than 300 feet from the top of the Chutes and the summit.


Dave nearing the upper reaches

By now, the first group of the day was now descending right where the unguided group was climbing, which meant that the main route was going to be crowded by two groups. Seeing this, we continued to stay right, which was slightly more difficult and steep. The angle increased to 45 degrees for the final pitch, and a slight hairy traverse across ice put us out of the way of the other groups and onto the final few feet of the Chutes. By this point, Shawn had cruised ahead and Dave and I were moving together, a minute or two behind him. I stopped at the summit ridge to don sunglasses as now the sun had come up, while Dave pushed ahead. A couple of short minutes later put us on top by 6:30, but we could not enjoy the view, as the fierce winds blew us around and knocked dust into our eyes. After a couple of pictures, we moved off the summit, let the unguided group past us on the ridge and engaged the descent.


My summit shot


Shawn and Dave on the windy perch

I hadn’t descended an icy slope of this degree before and blanched a little when I saw it, but Shawn showed me how to kick steps and move down the slope, and the going was surprisingly simple and the fear never arose like I thought it would. Certainly, you had to be careful with axe and boot placement, but kicking steps with Nuptses and G12s is a pretty easy task. Shawn, who led, was down in little time, but Dave and I took our time, chatting and keeping a deliberate pace down the hill and an eye on our technique. The climbers now descending en-masse above us started to concern me, as rocks, ice, and other falling objects from their group started making their way down towards us. We hastened our pace and were back facing outwards on the less steep slopes in minutes, and back to the Hogsback for some rest and celebratory high-fives. The worst was over and descent truly was not bad.


Dave and I facing in, kicking steps on the steepest part of the descent

From there, the descent was a lark and went quickly and steadily, though the howling winds were keeping the snow hard and made glissading difficult. We cruised down the snow slopes, across the rocks again and back onto the final Palmer Glacier above the ski area, where we could at last take the crampons off. Finally, the sun began to warm us and the slopes up as we began skirting the ski area, but glissading still didn’t happen until Shawn found a discarded blue plastic bag to use as a sled. Dave, then I, found similar items and joined him, though I won’t say the glissading was great. After avoiding a couple of crevasses in the climbers trail, we were back at the Timberline Lodge at a little after 10 am.


Crevasse in the trail, Shawn and Dave with glissading bags (multi-tasking by cleaning up garbage)

This was a different experience than Rainier. Going unguided made us test our own skills without supervision, though the climb was not nearly as difficult. Conditions were worse here, though, for what it’s worth. We really caught this mountain at the tail end of its optimal season – I wouldn’t encourage many more climbs this summer as the loose rock really is a hazard.

Shawn really impressed me with the ease and confidence he showed in handling the steep and icy snow and that pre-climb drink of Haterade he was drinking really kicked him up that peak. All in all, we felt good about our performance that day and the feeling of climbing both Mts. Rainier and Hood sent chills up my spine, personally. A very successful week, for sure, with two great friends made the Cascades an unforgettable adventure.


Mount Hood from Timberline Lodge
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Mountains complement desert as desert complements city, as wilderness complements and completes civilization. - Ed Abbey

[gpsjoe]

Awesome trip. Maybe in the next life for me!!

[desertgirl]

Way cool -- Awesome achievement!
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Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream!

[sbkelley]

Thanks! Though I think I'm looking forward to staying in the lowlands now
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Mountains complement desert as desert complements city, as wilderness complements and completes civilization. - Ed Abbey

[Davis2001R6]

Just got done reading both trip reports. Great job Scott, although I must say I really need a rematch now. Great write-ups and pictures. Some look very very familiar. Glad you had a great week!

-TIM-

[beckett]

Wow! Looks like an awesome trek...but I think I want to stay away from snow for a while. Thanks for sharing. I loved the pictures!
Linda
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"A real friend is one who walks in when the rest of the world walks out."

-- Walter Winchell, American newspaper commentator

[sbkelley]

Tim, rematch hike? How's next summer sound? It'll cost a lot less this time...and like i said, you made it up the hardest part - just stay away from the Scarpas and you'll cruise right up.

Linda, thanks, and I will agree with you that the snow is fun to visit, and then leave behind.
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Mountains complement desert as desert complements city, as wilderness complements and completes civilization. - Ed Abbey

[desertgirl]

Hey Scot -- What was your gear ? And Tim -- what did the Scarpas do to you ?
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Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream!

[sbkelley]

Ambika:

In terms of mountaineering gear, I had La Sportiva Nuptse boots (with liner and wool socks), Grivel G12 crampons, full-length gaiters, Black Diamond Raven ice axe, plus a down parka, and three layers beneath that with gloves, pants, etc. And a bunch of food!
_________________
Mountains complement desert as desert complements city, as wilderness complements and completes civilization. - Ed Abbey

[Davis2001R6]

My downfall was the La Sportiva Trango boots, felt great get never did get them broken in prior to the trip. Once climbing I got some horrible blisters, tried duct tape, moleskin nothing would stop it from getting worse.

I'll just give you the small pictures.

One on each foot, nothing but pain with each step.

Scott I'm game for next year, RMI or no RMI I don't care. Maybe Mt. Adams or St. Helens to round out the trio?

In the meantime, how about Orizaba in December?

[Matt Hoffman]

Awesome trip reports! Something like this has been in the back of my mind for a while. I would love to get in on something like this.
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"Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
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[sbkelley]

Matt, I'd always be up for something like this again - tag along on Tim's revenge climb and we'll get you up there
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Mountains complement desert as desert complements city, as wilderness complements and completes civilization. - Ed Abbey

[Matt Hoffman]

Cool. Maybe I'll just make next summer my "Summer of Mountaineering", since I'm tentatively planning to spend a week in Colorado, summitting peaks there.
_________________
"Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html

[desertgirl]

I woke up thinking of Thin Air and of your trip reports .... . These trip report are making me want to go altitude climbing and I have some major vacaction coming up in a year or so
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Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream!

[Canyon Dweller]

looked at both reports. Congrats for doing 2 of the more difficult state high points? any plans for Gannet Peak in Wyoming or Granite Peak in Montana?
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Mountains are there to be climbed!

"Meaningless! Meaningless," says the teacher, "Utterly Meaningless, Everything is meaningless."-Ecclesiastes 1:2