Utah May 2008--Escalante River

[RedRoxx44]

I bolted out of Tucson to head north at noon, on a Fri. The drive was good, and I car camped off the road going over the Kaparowits Plateau out of Big Water that night. The evening in the badlands was a very nice one, I walked a little in the twilight to shake off the long drive and work week.
Up and over the Kelly Grade and plateau ( AKA "Wild Horse" mesa Zane Gray fans) via Smokey Mountain Rd. The dirt track was in great shape. It gets really rocky after Last Chance Canyon and dips in and out of the heads of some promising canyons. As they drop off into the plateau; I have explored some of them but I had other plans to fulfill. I rolled onto main street Escalante mid morning Sat, stopped at the BLM office, then off to Egypt TH off the Hole in the Rock road. I saddled up near noon, probably 8 vehicles at the TH. I hiked down part of the Fence canyon approach then took off directly toward the butte that marks the entrance to Neon canyon, then looped back and dropped into the Escalante river basin near Fence canyon's mouth.

It was rather warm and later than I like to start any trip. I was glad to reach the river and wade right in. About shin deep here, certainly less than I have found in May before. I went a turn or two down the river, then dropped my pack to hike up Neon and visit the Golden Cathedral. I saw several groups of hikers, including some canyoneering guys who dropped thru the ceiling at the Cathedral--I just missed it. I was too late for good photo sun angle there, but a lovely wedge of light thru the potholes glowed like a virtual arrowhead on the surface of the pool in the Cathedral. I sat here a little while.
I continued down the Escalante, the bushwacking was certainly challenging in certain areas. The recent flood had cleared out some areas, but erased any sort of use trail near the river and big piles of deadfall was everywhere. I visited Ringtail, then decided to camp near the mouth of 25 mile wash; it was a little windy, and I found an overhang around a corner to set up my bivy. I was able to camp under some sort of natural shelter every night of this trip.
I was tired, and had a strange sort of aversion to this journey, entertaining turning around at this point. All I can say is I just had a case of the blas---nothing was really elevating my mood. A good night's sleep and the wonderful morning light on the cliffs turned my attitude around--- and now I was ready to move on.
My trip plan was down this section of the Escalante, check out some side canyons, and out at Hurricane Wash via Coyote Canyon, and then hitchhike back to Egypt TH. River miles approx--38. Total base trip--54 miles, possibly 60 miles with some side canyon hiking. I had covered some other areas of the Upper Escalante in past trips and I was particularly intriqued with the area below Scorpion Gulch to Stevens Canyon.
The river crossings were many and pleasant. Mostly ankle to knee deep. Some crawling up and sliding down banks holding onto willows. At times you could stay on the banks depending on your tolerance for bushwacking. The canyon walls were tall and at times close to the river, at times set back. Colorful, stained, jagged, then smooth. I love the sandstone geology.
I passed by the Moody's, some lovely dark efflurescent blues depending on light on the walls of East Moody. I kept pace again camping just short of Scorpion Gulch, which I planned to go up some distance the next day. The weather was just excellent, not very cold or warm and NO BUGS at all along the river. Conditions were near perfect for the trip. I knew to expect some stormy conditions coming the next day or two. Again, I had a little ledge and overhang, with a nice view of the river.
Up early, dropped my pack near the entrance and took some water, snacks and camera up Scorpion. Dodged the mass of poison ivy, a little scrambling and up this lovely canyon graced with idyllic pools and alcoves. It was just a wonderful diversion and that is all I will say about that. Someone once said the Escalante and it's side canyons are very reminiscent of a small version of Glen Canyon and it's side canyons. It that is true Lake Powell destroyed Eden.
Back down the river. My life is controlled by this river and it's canyon. There is nothing else for me. The clouds build, and the wind rose and the sun was gone. Soon the huge sandstone walls stood back more, the canyon widened and the Chinle and Shinarump(?) formation showed up, and much more rubble and talus slides near the river. Large boulders in the river now, and large aquamarine pools, water depth well over my head. The narrow river bed broadened, still shallows found to cross, but the Escalante now more like a true river, with small rapids and a little more volume.
I lucked out on the best spot to spend the night for the rain storm. I found a hollowed out boulder with another boulder leaning over it, and a tunnel formed with a little recessed window. The flood had driven in a soft loose bed of sand, and flushed out a packrat nest, nothing much left. You had to climb up a small boulder at the foot, crawl in on hands and knees about 3 feet then at the rear a small recess that allowed one person to sit up. I dragged my pack in there. It was so warm I simply scooped out sand for my hips and shoulders and just layed my bag over me. I arranged all my things, even a handy ledge to leave my wet boots on.
I slept very well, in fact didn't even know it was raining till I woke up in the night and decided to look out. My headlamp picked up the vegetation waving around in the wind and shiny with rain. Rain dripped off the window ledge but I remained totally dry and wind free. It was a great little spot I dubbed my " sand cave"--enough room for one and definintely not for the claustrophobic.

The next morning the clouds moved out and it looked like a stellar day. As usual--down the river. The section past George canyon ( local name, not on the Trails' Illustrated Canyons of the Escalante map) was very tough. The bushwacking issue was gone, it was nothing but rock and some much too short sand and cobble beaches. Rock, rock and more rock. Little rocks, big rocks, megaliths. Sometimes climbing up as much as 30-50 feet above the river to avoid boulder jumbles. In some places this was very slow going. Crawling thru rocks, some backtracking when your route didn't go --unless you wanted to swim. Persistence and remembering to enjoy your surroundings was the key here. You will thank your lucky stars for a lightly loaded and well balanced pack in this section. It was definintely an ankle twister. At one point I took off my pack and threw it up on a sand bank and climbed up on a bush to get around a bad area. Not a lot of pictures this day. I did take one picture I like to look at-- it shows a wall detail just down canyon. It seems so close. It took me almost an hour to get there.

And yes the canyon was gloriously beautiful. I saw a few tracks but I saw no one after Neon. I was alone in a great big beautiful world all my own it seemed. I judged my progress by the side canyons, but I just watched for Steven's arch; when I saw that I knew I was almost done, as usual a relief and a let down. When I reached Steven's canyon I set up camp under a shallow overhang on the big beach opposite the canyon. Spring days are long, and I went up the canyon aways. I had pilot error with a leak from my MSR dromedary so set out some things to dry under the sun. I had bagged my sleeping bag and long johns and spare socks so they were fine. It was a fine lazy afternoon, and I enjoyed the general sloth I exhibited.

The next day to go up Coyote Gulch. I have hiked in here a few times--it is a premiere canyon of the Escalante and sees lots of use. I entered where the canyon meets the Escalante; in years of higher water levels from Lake Powell a high water route leaves shortly below Steven's canyon.
The gentle stream in Coyote is so different from the muscular Escalante. The Escalante was clear enough I was able to use it as a good water source. Coyote's stream is shallow and silty, but the canyon is graced with a number of springs. You wander by the sandslide route from Crack in the Wall and about 7 people were camped here. Past that Coyote stream meanders in a slickrock bed in spots and has some pretty, small waterfalls, one fun to get around solo with a big pack.
The canyon is intimate then the walls start getting bigger. It is truely a photographers dream in here too. I come to a significant spot for me--Coyote Natural Bridge. Around 2001 I was undergoing treatment for non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, and came to Utah to spend time to heal--and get strength from these wonderful surroundings to fight my cancer. I was five days after chemo 3 I think--I was bald, and my good friend Jerry from SoCal met me here to backpack Coyote as an overnighter. We went in at the Crack and out Hurricane. I had had a few bad days previous but was feeling amazingly well for the backpack, and I was carrying my own stuff. I remember resting at the bridge and feeling so amazed at the beauty of my surroundings--how could I leave this??? So much more to see and do. I felt for the first time all would be ok for me. After that point in time I had some down times but I never looked back; never doubted I would not be around in the future. And I am still here and doing my thing. I am thankful forever for this new life.

I make my photos, reflect, and walk on. Soon the massive undercuts, and Jacob Hamblin arch, appear. A young couple pass me by hiking out. I take one pic of the young man in the largest alcove, to give scale. He is a speck in the now gigantic landscape. Besides the one group camped and this couple and myself were the only folks I saw in Coyote Gulch. Whether it is the gas prices or because it was during the week or the forecast; I was surprised at the small populace in here.
I approach the Hurricane confluence. Because I want to start my hitchhike early in the day to maximize ride potential and to have enough water in case a long trek back to my car 35 road miles away, I again camp early in a sizable alcove just around the corner of the confluence. A nice side canyon comes in with clean clear water. I explore, and note the dark clouds drifting over again. My alcove is quite large and deep, and again I have no fear of the weather--I hope it storms like hell, which it doesn't.
The next day the slog out Hurricane, to the road. My pack is heavy with water. I start my road walk, under gray and stormy skies, a light wind, and thankfully the sun was tucked away. It was actually quite beautiful with the big clouds over the straight cliffs. I stop and talk to several folks, a couple from the Netherlands, a father and son in a Jeep. They are going the wrong way but all agree when they return up the road to give me a ride. I keep walking. Seems like I am programmed to do that. Finally, a great couple, Tracy and Keith from Salt Lake City give me a ride in their Land Rover-- all the way to Egypt TH; out of their way. I had walked about 10 road miles at that point. I was getting tired so the ride was quite a luxury.
I was glad to see my Toyota. I reckon about 65-70 miles for this little sortie. An excellent memorable trip.

I still have more time but I am tired and sore so want lighter hiking. I leave Escalante, make my way to outside of Hanksville, a pleasant view filled drive and you pass thru Capitol Reef. I wanted to visit some lovely narrows I photographed maybe 8 or so years ago. I took the dirt road toward the Dirty Devil, then the mining road that contours above the river almost 1500 feet up. I car camped among huge boulders and sat and let my legs dangle off a ledge looking down at the river basin far below. Tomorrow I would be down there. The wind rose and I was glad to sleep in the back of the car, listening to the howling that lasted far into the night.
The morning walk down the old mining track was delightful. Now there is a little trail, before there were no footprints. There is a cairn off the point and a trail down; before I just dived off here and got down via ledges to the final little plateau and cattle trail down to the River level. Cross, and into the Narrows. I got some fair light, and took a lot of pics, and thought how I enjoyed this area, the hike in total and the expansive views after the world in the canyons.
Well, that is my trip and all that. Pics of course will be coming at some point.
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You can rest when you're dead

[Suz]

Heat and I were just talking about you this morning. We were wondering about your trip, of course we knew you were fine but wondered about your adventure. The more I do in this area and read about it the more I can connect with your "places". Seems the hitching disturbs me more than sleeping with packrats.

Looking forward to your pics.

[BoyNhisDog]

I can count on one hand the number of people I read word for word and you are on that list. The desert in general is a spiritual place and southern Utah in May is the Eden of a world past. I understand all of your emotions even the lethargy you experienced at times.

We recently got back from Utah but spent time up in the Swell and the Reef this time, well away from the popular routes there. The stunning Coyote was our first foray into the Escalante area years ago but I have to say that when we see even one other person now, things are too crowded. The last five backpacks, I have carried 12 liters of water to outreach into places where they will not follow and it has paid off in spades, the most colorful and large sized pottery shards, 3000 year old art work with no footprints below it, no trails leading in (it just isn't possible), dinosaur tracks and nothing but walking in beauty and complete solitude.

The wildflower arraignments in southern Utah are as enchanting as ever just like your words and footsteps Letty.
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Seize from every moment its unique novelty and do not prepare your joys
- Andre Gide

[RedRoxx44]

This will probably be my last foray into this area for quite a while; it is getting too crowded and well known. The Dirty Devil River area has been a little haven and parts of the Swell too. I will probably head there when it is time to migrate to Utah again.
_________________
You can rest when you're dead

[Arizonaheat]

Great write up per usual, brought back great memories of last May when I experienced part of the same area.
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Our lives are not determined by what happens to us but by how we react to what happens, not by what life brings to us, but by the attitude we bring to life.

[Davis2001R6]

Hi Letty,

Just got around to reading your report, sounded like an excellent adventure. I agree with Glen about only reading certain trip reports word for word. I'll keep and eye out for pictures!

-TIM-

[IGO]

To carry 12 quarts of water to get away has been a matter of routine for me forever. No path is the best path.
_________________
"Surely all God's people, however serious or savage, great or small, like to play. Whales and elephants, dancing, humming gnats, and invisibly small mischievous microbes - all are warm with divine radium and must have lots of fun in them." John Muir

[RedRoxx44]

http://www.arizonahikers.com/forum/modules.php?set_albumName=albvp83&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=1
_________________
You can rest when you're dead

[Davis2001R6]

Every page was a pleasure to look at, you could open an art studio!

[Arizonaheat]

Ditto what Tim said.

AWESOME, thanks
_________________
Our lives are not determined by what happens to us but by how we react to what happens, not by what life brings to us, but by the attitude we bring to life.

[IGO]

Cool beans as always!
_________________
"Surely all God's people, however serious or savage, great or small, like to play. Whales and elephants, dancing, humming gnats, and invisibly small mischievous microbes - all are warm with divine radium and must have lots of fun in them." John Muir

[evenstar]

Totally awesome write-up and photos by one awesome lady! Thanks!
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When the Man waked up he said, "What is Wild Dog doing here?" And the Woman said, "His name is not Wild Dog anymore, but the First Friend, because he will be our friend for always and always and always. Take him with you when you go hunting."
--Rudyard Kipling, from Just So Stories, 1902