The High Sierra TR

YH · Posted: 8/1/2007, 8:19 pm Post subject: The High Sierra TR

The High Sierra

Part 1
Driving through Tuolumne Meadows looking at glistening granite domes only increases our anticipation for the trailhead. Find a place to park (this is Yosemite in the summer) and we are soon kicking up trail dust.

The temps are in the 70s…perfect, the sky partly cloudy. We head up the John Muir Trail through Lyell Canyon from Tuolumne. A beautiful green meadow that follows the steam for about 6 miles. On both sides rise the mountains…some with scattered tress and vegetation and others, the higher ones, barren granite. I love trees, but find the harsh granite of the high mountains captivating. This is only the beginning…the high country is calling and we are heading into the heart of it.

The stream quietly winds through the meadow as it has for eons…unrushed by time. In big snow years it spills over it’s banks spreading across the vast grassy land. In years such as this one it is well confined and will soon find it’s water diminishing as it waits for winter snows to once again fill the mountains. To everything there is a season and a time for every purpose under heaven. (Bonus points for song and artist)

We reach the end of our peaceful meadow and begin our climb over Donahue Pass. With each switchback views of higher peaks begin to rise from the background. My heavy breathing and tired legs welcome occasional rests to look out across from whence we came. It looks lush and green…soft. Our view upward looks quite different…a land of rock and ice…harsh, yet magical. We press onward. We decide to camp in a forested area beside a beautiful stream. We set our tarp and prepare for rain to descend from the building clouds. A drop here and there arrives, but rain never comes. Cooler air does arrive as the sun lowers behind the mountains. At about 9500 ft. we soon have fleece shirts and down vests on to retain our warmth.

Another couple of hikers enter our retreat and a young German woman enters our camp to see if we have an extra pot to sell them. Not being in the habit of carrying extra gear to sell to desperate hikers we say “no”, but they are welcome to borrow ours for the night to cook their dinner. They had left theirs back in Tuolumne (about 9.5 miles back) and the husband was debating on running back the next day to see if he could retrieve it. They had come out from New York and were planning on spending 9 days in the Yosemite backcountry. This was the woman’s first time backpacking and probably not a good way to start the trip. We offered an alternative solution…hike into Thousand Island lakes the next day, about 10 miles on the same trail. They could borrow a pot again at that popular destination. The following day take the connecting trail to Reds Meadow which is a popular re-supply spot for thru hikers of the John Muir and Pacific Crest trails. They could buy a pot there. Not only that, they could also take a hot shower from the hot spring fed showers (they feel soooo good!) and get a great meal at the rustic restaurant. Soon they were back at our camp with maps and smiles wanting exact directions. We visited quite awhile with this lovely young couple and they left with a smile on their faces and hope of a hot shower and “real food” only two days away. Now there’s a great way to ease a new person into this backpacking thing!

We crested the pass (11,000+ ft) the next day with Mt. Lyell in full view from one side of the pass and the Minarets on the other. The jagged peaks of the Minarets have become some of my favorite mountains with their dark foreboding appearance. We were hoping to climb Mt Ritter, the highest peak in the Minarets, but were becoming unsure as we stared up at the glacier. We were hoping because of the very light snow year there would be room to skirt around the glacier (we had no crampons or ice axe). It was glaringly apparent this was not the case. Even though the snow/ice would soften in the sun I was not going to cross that snowfield. There would be no peak bagging this trip.

We moved passed a couple of lakes and set up camp ay Garnet Lake. The lake is large and pretty sitting at the base of Mt. Ritter. Here is where we would leave the trail and begin our cross country travel as section 4 of Steve Roper’s High Sierra Route.

We slept out under the stars that night and were greeted with an early dawn. The early light on the mountains leaves me with a sense of stillness. It glows, wanes, spills into the shadows and soon breaks forth over the ridge tops.

Gear is packed and we begin our traverse around the lake and up over a short ridge. Wild flowers are now in abundance and we savor the early morning light glistening off the lake and stream. Surrounding us is life…abundant life. I have read that under the right circumstances even the rocks can cry out…on this day I believe that to be true. I feel full of life.

After a short distance we gaze back down onto Thousand Island Lake. We had skirted it the previous day, but now had come into the backside. It is a large lake with many rock outcroppings, hence the name. Crossing an isthmus we begin our journey around Mt. Ritter. It’s an easy trek as far as cross country goes. Following a stream we make our way up the canyon into the talus. The talus is large and stable, but I don’t trust my ankle and walk carefully. The mountains are unforgiving when you are off trail. Finally I leave John to the talus and cross onto a large snowfield. The mid day sun has softened it and I feel safe stomping my way up.

Cresting the top of the pass we are rewarded with a view of a beautiful blue High Sierra lake. The glacier feeds down into it from Ritter and distant mountains rise in the background. The wind is strong so we make our way down and across to a flat area. There is no shore at this lake, just rock, so we enjoy lunch at our flat area before continuing on. We have much steep ground still to cover before we get to Twin Island Lakes. Finally with much effort we make it to our destination. Shadows now cover our lake and I’m disappointed not to swim. Even so my clothes come off and vigorous splashing and dipping under ensues. I now smell better, feel better, and can feel the cold settling in. I eat and get into my bag and warmth returns quickly. Another night under the stars.
(Part 2 later)

Hikngrl · Posted: 8/2/2007, 6:02 am Post subject:

You write so well YH! You take me with you....thank you! Waiting more -patiently now- for part two and pictures!
_________________
~~~Diane~~~

I want to shine!