Hermit - Tonto - Bright Angel Loop

[Davis2001R6]

Sorry for the delay people, it's been a busy week!

A few months back I get a call from Brad in Florida and he has convinced a friend (John Paul) to take a trip backpacking in the Grand Canyon with him. Brad says, "Hey Tim, can you set something up for us". So I think up a few options and fax in the permit request. After the background check and interrogation from the BCO I do receive the permit in the mail a few weeks later for the Hermit - Tonto - Bright Angel Loop over 4 days camping at Hermit Rapids, Granite Rapids and Indian Gardens. Very similar to my first backpack in the canyon with Kurt just 2 years back.

The week finally comes and Brad says don't worry about bringing food, I've got that covered. Experience may tell you that might not be a good idea, but from Brad I look forward to his backcountry concoctions. I equip John Paul with all the gear he needs and after breakfast at Bright Angel Lodge we are off to Hermits Rest to the trail-head.

Wouldn't you know it, but in December it's cold and windy up on top, would have never guessed We made steady progress down the trail and were soon taking a break at Santa Marie Spring. We look up above the trail and there is a Big Horn Sheep out on a rock ledge looking down at us. Nice way to start off the trip! We continue down the trail which contours around quite a ways just above the Redwall and around a few rock falls over the years. Not real hard to follow for us, but I have ran into two groups of beginning hikers that did have a problem somehow. You finally make it over to Cathedral Straircase and actually start your descent to the Tonto. We found a nice place for lunch just above the junction with the Tonto and enjoyed some Zesty Lemon Pepper Tuna with Ritz crackers. We drop down into Hermit Creek and head for the rapids. It's just awesome following the creek down with something different around every turn. From some schist type rock to granite walls and waterfalls, the creek was flowing pretty good and you just across it a dozen times making your way downstream. We make it to the rapids after about 6 hours on the trail. Typical camp stuff here, get set-up while you still have light, filter water, get everything organized in your tent so you don't need to search for it later. Sat down at the rapids and enjoyed some shots of tequila. Had some Cheese and Crackers for a snack and Brad cooked up some tortellini with shrimp. Hit the spot and we were soon in our beds for the 12 hour of sleep in the winter.

We only had about 6 miles to go the next day so there was no rush getting up in the morning. We waited for the sun to hit our tents and warm us up a bit then we got up. Some oatmeal for breakfast and packed up camp and were soon hiking back upstream to the Tonto again. I was thinking of Kurt (cynhiker) trip the week previous who took a "River Route" from Hermit to Monument Creek. Wanted to explore that myself, but would never take a newbie on that one. After we made it up the Tonto we contoured around a few side canyons on the way to Monument Creek. There looked like a possible route to the river on at 94 Mile Canyon, may be worth a look one day. We quickly made it over to Monument creek and were headed down stream to Granite Rapids for our second nights camp. The creek didn't have water flowing at most parts only when you got to some rock narrows, you knew it was there just couldn't see it. Made it there early in the day after about 4 hours and had lunch. Today was Sweet and Spicy Tuna with Ritz Crackers. Took our time setting up camp, the weather was pretty pleasant and we had a good amount of sun there for a while. Brad cooked up some tortellini with Lobster and enjoyed some Kahlua with vodka and hot chocolate as well. Stayed up another hour in the dark this night. It was a full moon and bright out all night. Didn't even need a headlamp for the midnight potty run.

The next morning we got up when it became light out, had about a 13 mile day all the way to Indian Gardens so I knew we needed a good start. After the morning hot chocolate and oatmeal were were headed back up the creek to pick-up the Tonto again. I was trying to avoid making the climb near the Monument itself and stay in the creek. Made one little climb on the slick granite walls then came to a point where we would be getting our feet wet. So we made a little climb to bypass it and were then headed back down into the creek at campsite. The Tonto trail picks up just on the other side of the camp. Start a nice climb up and begin the contour game of the Tonto. Pass a few side canyons and had some really great views this day. It was a bit cold in the shade but nice in the sun. Really enjoyed this section of the Tonto. We had lunch in a nice sunny spot past Salt Creek but before Horn Creek. Drank some gatorade that we forgot we had as well. Lunch today was Regular Tuna and Ritz with a few mayo packets thanks to our waitor at the B.A. Lodge at our pre-hike breakfast. We stepped up the pace a bit since we wanted to make Indian Gardens while we still had light. Brad led for a while then I did for the last few miles. John Paul had no problems keeping up with either of us. We made it to the deserted camp at Indian Gardens and set up as one spot. It was a bit cold and windy there so we moved down canyon just a few spots and had no wind at all! We finished off all our Tequilla and Kahlua Hot Choclate mix as well tonight. Tonights feast was a large serving of Tortellini with Crab, hit the spot again Brad!

We slept in a bit in the morning as this was our coldest night. Still never got down to freezing though which was a nice treat. I got packed up quick and started the water for the morning oatmeal and soon we were headed up the Bright Angel Trail. We made steady progress on the way out with breaks at the 3 mile and 1 1/2 mile rest houses. Began seeing the tourist on the way out as well as the mule trains on the way down. Funny how you can pick up the scent of someone who just took a shower a few hours ago, but you don't dare to smell yourself. We made it out around 11 and headed over to the bar for some Bloody Mary's, Beer and some fried food! That bacon cheeseburger and onion rings sure did hit the spot. The time came to leave and I dropped off John Paul and Brad in Flagstaff at his parents house. Sure wish I could have stayed for your dinner that night but needed to get home.

It was a great trip in all and was a nice twist to the version I took 2 years to the week previously. It was great seeing you again Brad and nice meeting you John Paul. Give me a call next year when your recovered and forget how tough the canyon can be, but you want some more!

BTW the quote of the trip was from John Paul. He stated a new reason not to drink. "This is why you don't drink, you get talked into taking a trip like this"

Pictures will be posted here soon: Link to Pictures

[Hnak]

That is a fun loop, isn't it? Glad you had a good time. I'm curious about that river route too, maybe someday....

Great report, thanks!
_________________
The world is older and bigger than we are. This is a hard truth for some folks to swallow. —EDWARD ABBEY

[Davis2001R6]

That is a great loop! Ok my pictures are up now. Now bare with me, it was a new camera so please excuse the neon green sky in many of the landscapes.

[LongStoryShort]

Right on Tim! Kudos to anyone that escapes with their lives from that place.
_________________
Happiness is being high on the food chain.

[paintninaz]

Sounds like a fun trip!!!

Hey can we bring Brad along on our next Canyon trip?.....and does he do windows?

Nice pictures too!!!
_________________
~Tracy

“Friends make the bad times good — and the good times unforgettable.”

[AZBrad123]

Hey Tim, great write up as always, and as always great spending time wiht you. I am back in seaside, FL. I will be meeting up with John Paul at the same bar he committed to this hike in a few hours. After a few drinks maybe able to get him to commit to another.

Thanks for everything! Will see you next time i come back to AZ, hopefully that does not correspond to the next time i quit my job like this time!!

Everyone have a good holiday!!

[desertgirl]

Thanks for bringing back fond memories of my 1st long canyon backpack....That is a fun loop -- Monument would be fun place to play
_________________
Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream!

[Suz]

Tim, How did you like the new sleeping bag?

[Davis2001R6]

I was just fine using it as a blanket, just used my bag liner and wore a pair of boxers. One night when I thought I would be cold I put on the long-john underwear and started sweating. The Zero degree won't get used a whole lot, but it's nice to have for the winter trips at least.

[IGO]

Yeah. I'm clueless as to whether I'll want a 0 or a 15 for winter canyon backpacking. What I do know is I'm working hard on expanding the backpacking season into winter so there are some experiments to be done. I have frozen my arse off in winter before. Still I'm thinking a 0 might be a little warm for the canyon. We'll see.
_________________
"Surely all God's people, however serious or savage, great or small, like to play. Whales and elephants, dancing, humming gnats, and invisibly small mischievous microbes - all are warm with divine radium and must have lots of fun in them." John Muir