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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004
Posts: 701
Location: Grantham, NH
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 Posted: 11/19/2007, 7:21 am Post subject: |
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| Suz wrote: |
| I need a talon thing with a cord....... |
If you are going to be sport climbing and/or top-roping, then you don't need one of those.
| Suz wrote: |
| Can someone please tell me where Jacks Canyon is? Can it be done as a long day trip? I could join you for one day if it's not to far but already have plans to take my Gma to the Art Festival in Tempe that weekend so I need one day for that...I think! |
Suz, Jacks Canyon is about 30 miles south of Winslow on the west side of the B-Line. It can be done as a day trip, that's what we did 2 Sunday's ago. No worries if you can't make it, we'll go again. Maybe we can go to QCC with you sometime. We love climbing there too!
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"Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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Suz
Joined: 27 Nov 2005
Posts: 3186
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 7:45 am Post subject: |
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| Matt Hoffman wrote: |
| Suz wrote: |
| I need a talon thing with a cord....... |
If you are going to be sport climbing and/or top-roping, then you don't need one of those.
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I had some issues on a little trip with Hank that had me stopped in my tracks in a not so sweet spot....a bit of a pinch because I couldn't stretch and find any hand holds. This was suggested to me as a simple tool to carry in my daypack or backpack for a possible solution. |
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lzyboy
Joined: 21 Nov 2004
Posts: 201
Location: Mesa
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 8:28 am Post subject: |
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| Suz wrote: |
| Matt Hoffman wrote: |
| Suz wrote: |
| I need a talon thing with a cord....... |
If you are going to be sport climbing and/or top-roping, then you don't need one of those.
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I had some issues on a little trip with Hank that had me stopped in my tracks in a not so sweet spot....a bit of a pinch because I couldn't stretch and find any hand holds. This was suggested to me as a simple tool to carry in my daypack or backpack for a possible solution. |
Matt,
Even tho it's an aid climbing piece, the Talon would have opened up some really cool places to me had I had one on some of the hikes I was doing out around Horse Mesa. Places where the downclimb seemed just a little too sketchy, especially being by myself most times. And it holds so well on some of the tiniest stuff! That's why I suggested it to Suz.
I'd love to get back to Jack's to do some climbing there, so don't be surprised if you see me. After this weekend, I see a need to get into PRG or put up a partial woody to work on my endurance. I make a great belay slave, tho. |
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fritzski
Joined: 10 Feb 2003
Posts: 50
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 9:32 am Post subject: |
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Suz,
I now boast two hip replacements and half a shoulder! But thanks to the miracles of modern technology I'm hardly even aware of it (until I go thru security at the airport  )
Regarding your photo, I do have to say it's difficult to understand what's going on up there. If I'm not mistaken, that's two guys up on Giggling Marlin which is a single pitch sport climb and the guy on the right seems to be off the rope  Though I know photos can be deceiving.
Personally I would discourage any use of aid devices in your pursuit to learn the sport. Sounds like what you're referring to is known as a "fifi hook" and is a specialized piece with uses outside the realm of free climbing and especially sport climbing.
BTW my mentor and current partner only stands about 5'5" and he climbs 5.11. I went to see world class climbers Tommy and Beth Caldwell give a presentation and was shocked at how small they were. He's no more than about 5'7" (of wiry muscle!) and she was really tiny at only about 5'3" or so  I'm convinced that there are advantages for both the tall and the short in the sport. |
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Suz
Joined: 27 Nov 2005
Posts: 3186
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 11:26 am Post subject: |
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| fritzski wrote: |
Suz,
I now boast two hip replacements and half a shoulder! But thanks to the miracles of modern technology I'm hardly even aware of it (until I go thru security at the airport ). |
 Now that's amazing!
It was difficult for me to tell what was going on up there, too.  I think John was unhooking our top clip and Pete was waiting for that before starting back down.
I'd rather be device free, too......but looking back there are probably three places that this little claw would have helped me. I'm sure it was lack of skill, experience and technique that caused the problem. Practice, practice, practice....which is why I need all of you  |
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lzyboy
Joined: 21 Nov 2004
Posts: 201
Location: Mesa
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 11:40 am Post subject: |
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| fritzski wrote: |
| Regarding your photo, I do have to say it's difficult to understand what's going on up there. If I'm not mistaken, that's two guys up on Giggling Marlin which is a single pitch sport climb and the guy on the right seems to be off the rope Though I know photos can be deceiving. |
Actually John (on the left) is at the anchors on KGB (5.10b), on toprope, and I (on the right) was at the no-hands rest just below the chute on Giggling Marlin(5.9), also on toprope.
| Matt Hoffman wrote: |
| Suz wrote: |
| I need a talon thing with a cord....... |
If you are going to be sport climbing and/or top-roping, then you don't need one of those. |
| fritzski wrote: |
| Personally I would discourage any use of aid devices in your pursuit to learn the sport. Sounds like what you're referring to is known as a "fifi hook" and is a specialized piece with uses outside the realm of free climbing and especially sport climbing. |
| Any other climber on the hiking site wrote: |
| We think the ONLY time you might ever need this piece of aid gear is if you're solo-aiding halfway up some huge wall in the Cerro Torre, in a blinding snowstorm, you just dropped your only rope, you're 2000 feet up but 1000ft short, your hands are numb, you're out of food and nobody knows you're there! Then, and only then you can use it. But ONLY to actually end you life quickly, by removing your helmet and jamming it ... |
The aid device Suz mentioned MAYBE getting is the Black Diamond Talon (not a fifi hook), which, yes, once again, is a device designed for aid climbing, not for freeclimbing, either sport or trad, and was not presented to her as a piece of climbing gear. AND she would not be using it for CLIMBING purposes, per se, merely as an aid for downclimbing on some of her more heinous backpacking adventures (like a rope tied around a tree, but without the tree)... or to scare away hungry rodents... or as a Christmas tree ornament, but surely NOT and I repeat NOT in her pursuit of learning rockclimbing skills, either basic or advanced, should she decide to pursue those. It is merely a device, not unlike carabiners, designed for climbing yet there are myriad other uses for them.
On the other hand, the book she mentioned, as I'm sure all you advanced climbers know, can easily be used as passive protection on trad routes, and can effectively replace an entire rack. The size of the placement determines just how many pages would need to be torn out and slung to provide the proper protection. The thicker the book, the longer the route. Any extra can be used if nature calls on the hike out. Multipurpose...
Climbers.... sheesh...
_________________
I see my path, but I don't know where it leads. Not knowing where I'm going is what inspires me to travel it.
Rosalia de Castro |
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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004
Posts: 701
Location: Grantham, NH
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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| lzyboy wrote: |
Matt,
Even tho it's an aid climbing piece, the Talon would have opened up some really cool places to me had I had one on some of the hikes I was doing out around Horse Mesa. Places where the downclimb seemed just a little too sketchy, especially being by myself most times. And it holds so well on some of the tiniest stuff! That's why I suggested it to Suz.
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Oh. I never considered that. Sorry. I have a one-track mind most of the time. To me, it sounds dangerous to rely on something like that for downclimbing. That's just me.
| lzyboy wrote: |
| On the other hand, the book she mentioned, as I'm sure all you advanced climbers know, can easily be used as passive protection on trad routes, and can effectively replace an entire rack. The size of the placement determines just how many pages would need to be torn out and slung to provide the proper protection. The thicker the book, the longer the route. Any extra can be used if nature calls on the hike out. Multipurpose... |
 That's really funny!
_________________
"Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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fritzski
Joined: 10 Feb 2003
Posts: 50
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: |
| Actually John (on the left) is at the anchors on KGB (5.10b), on toprope, and I (on the right) was at the no-hands rest just below the chute on Giggling Marlin(5.9), also on toprope. |
Right on. I hope to be there tomorrow.
| Quote: |
| The aid device Suz mentioned MAYBE getting is the Black Diamond Talon (not a fifi hook), which, yes, once again, is a device designed for aid climbing, not for freeclimbing, either sport or trad, and was not presented to her as a piece of climbing gear. AND she would not be using it for CLIMBING purposes, per se, merely as an aid for downclimbing on some of her more heinous backpacking adventures (like a rope tied around a tree, but without the tree)... or to scare away hungry rodents... or as a Christmas tree ornament, but surely NOT and I repeat NOT in her pursuit of learning rockclimbing skills, either basic or advanced, should she decide to pursue those. It is merely a device, not unlike carabiners, designed for climbing yet there are myriad other uses for them. |
That's cool. I thought she mentioned wishing she had it for her climb down in Atlantis and that's why I commented. |
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Suz
Joined: 27 Nov 2005
Posts: 3186
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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| fritzski wrote: |
That's cool. I thought she mentioned wishing she had it for her climb down in Atlantis and that's why I commented. |
I'm sure it's not the first time someone has been confused by something I've said. 
I've had a few times in my short little hiking life that I've been able to do a controlled slip down something (blue springs and south canyon come to mind but I'm sure there are other spots) and then unable to find ANY hand/foot holds to get back up. Usually I'm with Hank........who happens to be 6'10" doesn't have that problem. Thankfully we've been able to solve the problem with a very hi-tech-don't-try-this-alone-manuever......basically meaning he has to do the bam-bam move where he grabs my hair and drags me back up or he comes back around presses himself agains the rocks and I step, climb and crawl on him. Most of the time we find the humor and just fix the problem but once or twice it has left me a little edgy and uncertain. Pete knows of these times and was offering up the talon as a suggestion to prevent me from trading in my adventurous spirit for quilting project. Sorry if some how anyone got confused.
Fritski---if you get a chance, check back in and let us know how your climbs go.
Pete------really what was the name of that book? |
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lzyboy
Joined: 21 Nov 2004
Posts: 201
Location: Mesa
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Suz wrote: |
| Pete------really what was the name of that book? |
Somebody, help this girl out!! If you wanted a book about hiking, camping, backcountry travel, map reading, ropework, rockclimbing, ice-climbing, snow travel, crevasse rescue, avalanche assessment, blah, blah, blah. What would it be???? Anybody??? Tim? |
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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004
Posts: 701
Location: Grantham, NH
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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| lzyboy wrote: |
| Suz wrote: |
| Pete------really what was the name of that book? |
Somebody, help this girl out!! If you wanted a book about hiking, camping, backcountry travel, map reading, ropework, rockclimbing, ice-climbing, snow travel, crevasse rescue, avalanche assessment, blah, blah, blah. What would it be???? Anybody??? Tim? |
It would be: Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. Great book!
_________________
"Your day-glo ballet days are over." Ancient chinese proverb.
http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html |
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lzyboy
Joined: 21 Nov 2004
Posts: 201
Location: Mesa
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| Posted: 11/19/2007, 9:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Matt Hoffman wrote: |
| It would be: Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. Great book! |
Give that man a cigar!!
_________________
I see my path, but I don't know where it leads. Not knowing where I'm going is what inspires me to travel it.
Rosalia de Castro |
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desertgirl
Joined: 19 Jan 2003
Posts: 3350
Location: Chandler, AZ
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| Posted: 11/20/2007, 9:55 am Post subject: |
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Great book 
I'd love to rapel again .... It cooler now -- any options.
_________________
Photos: http://www.pbase.com/desertgirl/galleries
Life is but a dream ...there is no end to what you can dream! |
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Matt Hoffman
Joined: 18 Feb 2004
Posts: 701
Location: Grantham, NH
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Suz
Joined: 27 Nov 2005
Posts: 3186
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| Posted: 11/20/2007, 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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Matt---great set of pics! It looks like a darn tootin good time!
Thinking hard about Jack's first part of December and wondering if I can get anyone to ride with me for a day thing. |
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