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Rock Climbing in the McDowell's
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BoyNhisDog
The dangerous place where the winds meet




Joined: 05 Jan 2003
Posts: 1375
Location: Tucson

PostPosted: 3/20/2007, 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply to topic Reply with quote

I am going to start calling you Wonder Woman. You just are not afraid to do anything.
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Seize from every moment its unique novelty and do not prepare your joys
- Andre Gide
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Matt Hoffman





Joined: 18 Feb 2004
Posts: 701
Location: Grantham, NH

PostPosted: 3/20/2007, 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply to topic Reply with quote

Suz wrote:
Hey Matt----any easy technical climbs in Queen Creek? or is that an oxymoron? I hear that the quartz is super slick, queen creek area can be like sand paper and after all that I'll be wishing to be back on that granite slab in the McDowell's!


No, that's not an oxymoron....well, maybe for some people. But yeah, there are plenty of easy climbs at Queen Creek; it just depends on the area you go to. The Mine area (which is divided into Upper and Lower Lunar Lands, and Magma Gardens) is a great place for beginners. There is a climb in Lower Lunar Land called Snorkeling the Rhyolite which I believe is rated 5.5. There are also plenty of 5.7 slabs. The rock at Queen Creek is mostly rhyolite which is nasty (nasty in a good way Wink ) volcanic rock. It is pretty rough on the hands, but the grip is unbelievable! Trust your feet...that's what I always say. I suppose granite is nicer to your hands than rhyolite, but one trip to Joshua Tree in CA will change your mind!
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http://web.mac.com/climbingsponge/Matt_Hoffman_Images/Welcome.html
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fritzski





Joined: 10 Feb 2003
Posts: 50
Location: Gilbert, AZ

PostPosted: 3/20/2007, 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply to topic Reply with quote

Suz,

The best beginner area in Queen Creek Cyn is Upper Devils Canyon. This has been the case only recently since Marty Karabin, the area's main developer, has just put up a bunch of beginner climbs ranging from 5.4 to 5.7 within the past couple years. The Mine Area is nice and very aesthetic, but you really have to hunt and peck for the quality beginner climbs and some of those slabby face climbs are crimpy and a bit sandbagged much as you probably experienced at Sven's Slab in the McDs. Another plus to UD is that if the weather starts getting warmer, the whole area is shaded in the PM.
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Suz





Joined: 27 Nov 2005
Posts: 3186

PostPosted: 3/21/2007, 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply to topic Reply with quote

wow----there are more great resources on this site with all of you than I think I can pull up on Google.com Laughing

Thanks Matt and Fritzski! I was thinking I might stick to Volcanic Rock best. I know I need to trust my feet but I wasn't liking the shoes.....my friends picked up the rental shoes for me so I didn't really have a chance to check the fit----bad idea!

I think we are shooting for Queen Creek on the 31st of this month.

Found myself accidently using a Spiderman pencil yesterday Very Happy
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cactuscat





Joined: 04 Jan 2003
Posts: 459
Location: Phoenix

PostPosted: 4/4/2007, 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply to topic Reply with quote

Looks like the Sven Slab to me - I love that area! The rightmost bolt line is a wonderful, classic 5.5 - "Quaker Oats".
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